SCOTLAND NECK — The sweet smelling substance pours slowly from the steel tap, filling the small glass decanter held beneath it. As it’s lifted toward the ceiling, the pale yellow liquid catches the light, setting it aglow like flaming amber. “Isn’t that beautiful?” asks Alex McLennan, studying his handy-work. “Just like the sun on a Carolina beach”

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As owner/operator of Ventosa Plantation Vineyard and Winery, McLennan has reason to wax eloquent about his creation. Located in a remote corner of Scotland Neck on Clark Canal Road, the winery, which has been in operation a scant two years, is already producing blends of a quality well above the average, highly sweetened brands found at the local grocer. McLennan said his wines, both whites and reds, are aimed at those 30 and over who have a taste for something sharper with a bit of bite, or as he explains it, “I like to say it’s the difference between filet mignon and pork chops.”

As anyone who spends time with McLennan will be quick to learn, the process of wine making is as much art as science, as much poetry as planning. There are as many different formulas for wine making as there are wine makers. “People make wine according to the vineyard, the type of grape, and, I swear, their mood. It’s true. The process will often be the same, but the numbers will be different.”

That process begins in the vineyard, in McLennan’s case 16 acres of fertile Halifax County soil carved out of the nearly 5,000 acre farm owned by his father, the senior Alex McLennan, who provides the majority of financing for his son’s venture. Looking over the rows of vine covered wires running the length of the fields, McLennan’s pride is evident as he inspects the lush green plants teeming with small grapes, a result of years of preparation and hard work. “I don’t mean to brag, but this vineyard’s doing really well,” he said, lifting a leafy branch to reveal a stem covered in small, green pods.

The vineyard grows Muscadine grape plants of four varieties: Magnolias, a densely fruited plant used for white wines; Triumphs, which are much like the Magnolias, but not as productive; Nobles, a red wine grape, which grow quickly and produce a heavy fruit; and Carlos, McLennan’s favorite, which produces the largest grapes and thickest foliage of the four.

Among health enthusiasts, the Muscadine branch is famed for its high antioxidant content. Recently, it’s gained favor among celebrities due to its alleged anti-aging properties.

The vineyard is a labor-intensive enterprise, said McLennan, explaining the majority of the work falls on his shoulders. “It can be murder trying to do this by myself,” he said warily, explaining the 200 vines currently in use can take up to one day a piece to properly prune.

McLennan said a number of factors affect the quality of the harvest, including weather and the type of treatment the farmer gives the plants. Diseases, both viral and bacterial, also play their part. Pointing to a damaged area around the base of one plant, McLennan said the cause is a common disease known as Crown Gall, which forms around any type of injury the vine may receive. “It’s basically cancer of the plant,” he added. Another cause for concern is the dreaded Japanese Beetle, which McLennan said can strip a vineyard bare within a week.

The grapes are harvested during a narrow 7-to 8-day period in August or September. Using a mechanical harvester outfitted with a conveyer belt, the grapes are knocked off the stems by way of a series of metal arms in the machine’s center, which passes directly over the plants. The grapes are loaded into a stainless steel harvest wagon before being placed into a crusher and de-stemmer, which separates leaves, stems and other trash from the grape and then crushes it into juice and pulp, known as must.

From there, the pre-wine product goes into a holding tank, where it is tested for acidity (pH levels) before being introduced to winery.

Read more about the Ventosa Plantation Vineyard and Winery in Thursday’s edition of the Daily Herald. “Part 2: Vino blooms from old cottonfields” continues with Alex McLennan’s venture of the land and history surrounding this Scotland Neck vineyard.